The website is divided into electric guitars, acoustic guitars, and guitar amplifiers in addition to other instruments. Blue Book Publications: Blue Book Publications publishes a number of print guides for musical instruments, and it also maintains a subscription-based website.It has every major guitar manufacturer and most obscure ones. The website is browsable by the first letter of your instrument's manufacturer or make.
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The company behind Used Price works in conjunction with Orion Bluebook, which makes this the largest website dedicated to pricing used musical instruments. This includes electric and acoustic guitars, as well as bass guitars, amplifiers, and other guitar peripherals.
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The following websites act as a guitar blue book online. From here, you can make additions or subtractions to the value based on damages, imperfections, and after-market additions to the instrument.
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I had assumed it would be ply, partly because I had read comments about Kay's use of ply and partly because I thought I saw layers at the F holes. I had a 50s Kay that I cut a big hole in (the resonator conversion) and was surprised to find a solid top there as well. Back and sides were, I think, ply, but I'm not sure. As far as the woods go, my top was solid but steam pressed into the arch rather than carved. Someone made me a replacement, which I had to thicken up with a piece of clear acrylic. I assumed from other Kays I'd seen that the pickguard (missing) would be translucent tortoise shell too. The molding and heel cap were a beautiful translucent tortoise shell celluloid. Mine had a muddy opaque stain on the headstock, so I just sanded it down and restained it. After pricing replacements, I finally decided to make buttons out of oak dowels. My Kay had Kluson tuners but the buttons had crumbled. I put sand paper face up on the top at the bridge area and sanded the bridge feet to fit the arch of the top. I didn't have a Kay bridge to compare to, so I didn't even try. The bridge was just one I had lying around from a cheap Asian import. I hand rubbed it with Tru Oil and then buffed it with lamb's wool. There were places that had exposed bare wood, so I needed to re-seal it but didn't want to strip the old patina away. cleaned it up with naptha and a Scotch Brite pad. How is your binding holding up? Gobs of questions related to whether I can fix mine up adequately. Sides -appear- solid, or have a -very- thick outer layer. What did you learn about the wood? Mine has pretty well demonstrated its solid top by splitting along the grain lines there, but I don't know about the back yet. Edgerton offered that the buttons didn't look "shrunken," probably pre-WWII, although he said something like probably "mid '40s or older".
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Your headstock is stained rather than veneered? The original pic seems to show blond, and I'm guessing. 5:7.10:12 fret markers with double dots on the 12 instead of singles on 3/7/12 and doubles on 5/10/15 I see on many others here. Eastmountain: what did you do in the way of 1) cleanup and 2) finish? How closely did you try to reproduce the bridge? I have a broken mandolin of this type, looking identical but for a rosewood headstock veneer matching the fretboard.